As Durga Puja approaches, Bengali households are known for their festive meals, with hilsa fish being a quintessential dish. However, this year, the beloved hilsa, or ilish, may become a rare treat for many in India. The recent ban by Bangladesh’s interim government on hilsa exports has caused a stir among fish lovers and traders alike.
Bangladesh’s decision to halt hilsa exports to India comes as a significant blow to the traditional Durga Puja celebrations. Faisal Akhter, advisor to the Bangladesh Ministry of Fisheries and Livestock, confirmed the ban to ensure that local consumers have adequate access to the prized fish. “We cannot allow ilish to be exported while our own people cannot buy them. This year, I have instructed the Ministry of Commerce to prevent any ilish exports to India during Durga Puja,” Akhter said.
This move marks a departure from the previous goodwill practice of sending large consignments of Padma ilish to India, especially during major festivals. Under the previous government led by Sheikh Hasina, such exports were a gesture of friendship and cultural exchange.
The ban has led to a significant rise in hilsa prices in India. Traders are now routing hilsa through alternative routes to bypass the export restrictions. Reports indicate that despite the ban, hilsa from Bangladesh is still making its way into Indian markets, albeit at inflated prices. In Delhi, prices for a 1-1.3 kg hilsa have jumped to Rs 2,200 to Rs 2,400 per kilo, compared to Rs 1,800 to Rs 2,000 a few months ago.
“Traders at Gazipur wholesale market have told us that hilsa from Bangladesh is now being routed via Myanmar,” a fish seller in Delhi’s CR Park Market 1 revealed.
Padma ilish, hailing from the Padma River, is renowned for its exceptional taste and texture. It is highly prized for its rich fat and juicy flesh, which set it apart from other varieties. The fish’s unique flavor profile, influenced by the specific conditions of the Padma River, makes it a staple in Bengali celebrations.
Hilsa from Padma has been an integral part of Bengali cuisine and cultural events such as Durga Puja, Poila Boisakh (Bengali New Year), and Jamai Soshti. Despite the challenges posed by the ban, enthusiasts are eager to savor this delicacy.
The tradition of hilsa diplomacy has long been a symbol of goodwill between India and Bangladesh. Former Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina used hilsa exports as a gesture of friendship, gifting it to Indian leaders and facilitating its supply during festive seasons. The diplomatic gesture was significant enough to warrant special permissions and celebrations, including a 500-tonne shipment as a Durga Puja gift in 2019.
This year’s abrupt halt to exports represents a dramatic shift from this practice, putting hilsa diplomacy to the test. Even so, the enduring love for ilish ensures that it will continue to make its way into Indian kitchens, even if it requires paying a premium.
