For the first time in fashion history, Urvashi Rautela graced the runway wearing a traditional Manipuri bridal ensemble crafted from 24-karat gold. Designed by Robert Naorem, the model-actor looked stunning in a vivid red kumin potloi, a traditional Manipuri outfit typically worn during significant cultural events like weddings and Rasa Leela performances. Complementing her attire, Rautela adorned herself with gold jewelry, showcasing a look that featured intricate khoi and kumin hand embroidery, enhanced with gold stone accents.
The Imphal-based designer, Naorem, described his creation as embodying an “otherworldly yet familiar Manipur modern aesthetic, both relevant & timeless” on Instagram.
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Ruhi Munjial, Assistant Professor at NIFT Panchkula, provided insights into the outfit’s components. The kumin potloi includes a cylindrical skirt made from thick fabric reinforced with bamboo and embellished with satin, mirrors, and glitter. It is paired with a woven belt and an innaphi—a delicate muslin shawl draped over the upper body.
Munjial explained that the potloi holds profound cultural significance in Manipuri tradition, particularly within the Meitei Hindu community. Introduced by Maharaja Bhagyachandra (1749-1798) for dancers performing the Rasa Leela, the heavy, stiffened skirt was initially designed to “hide the feet from Krishna” during the dance, symbolizing modesty and divine reverence. Over time, the potloi evolved into a crucial component of Manipuri Hindu bridal attire, with the dress often being stitched directly onto the bride before the ceremony.
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Regarding the jewelry, Munjial noted that the headgear, known as kajenglei or leitreng, is intricately crafted from gold, silver, or other precious materials. The ornaments include brass or jari pieces like samjinam and samjithet, worn on the regular bun, with a thin scarf covering the bun from behind. The headgear worn by Rautela closely resembles the traditional Jhapa attire introduced during Maharaja Chandrakirti’s reign in 1850 and later adopted for Diva Ras during Maharaja Churachand’s reign in 1941. The ornaments include the mini (worn along the hair parting), the karnal (covering the ears), and the kulak (a butterfly-shaped silver jari ornament placed on either side of the hair parting).
