Driving along the winding roads around the mountains on our way up to Kodaikanal, we began to see a glimpse of blue. It was an exciting moment for us, for had we missed this, we would have had to wait until 2030. In any case the way things look, I wonder if there will be very much left, at the next 12 year cycle. This was my second sighting and I was quite happy to be heading up to be there again this year 2018.
At Dolphins Nose
Cloudland Peak
At the serene and picturesque lake
The elusive patch of blue that we were hunting is the Strobilanthes Kunthiana, the famed Kurunji flower. An endemic species in South India; it grows on the Annamalai, Nilgiri and Palani Mountains of south-western Tamil Nadu. It apparently does not grow in any other part of the world. Although there are about 50 varieties of Kurunji, the blue variety blooms once in 12 years. One hears from the locals who have seen the flowerings previously that entire mountainsides used to be covered with the plants, appearing like a blue haze over the mountains.
The first recorded flowering was in 1838 and it seems that the tribals of these mountains were well aware of the flowering cycle. This plant blooms once in 12 years and perishes after the blooming. A new plant takes its place with its genetic clock set for the next blooming. This rarity in flowering makes the Neela Kurnji, a legend in itself.
Trekking to Dolphins Nose, a landmark in Kodai is always challenging and we look forward to it every time. Coming downhill from the Upper Lake Road and heading through the little village , we step down onto the path that leads very steeply down and we need to climb over gnarled roots of the trees around us. Climbing further down through the forests of Eucalyptus, we finally reach a rocky path and have to climb up a narrow rockface to reach the rocky promontory that is Dolphins Nose. Spectacular visuals from here of the surrounding mountains, the Rhodendron trees all across the sides and a beautiful visual of the valley below us. Heading back is always a challenge as it is a very steep upward climb all the way back . But we have time to catch a great breakfast at Altaf›s Cafe, that is set overlooking the entire valley. Great Bread Omelet and Masala Chai, along with healthy oats makes for a perfect choice. It is a climb up again to our starting point and then a walk home !
Today, despite the cultivation that has totally changed the appearance of these areas, we were still able to see large tracts of flowers wherever the march of progress had allowed the plants to survive. Even on the sides of the roads that we drove along, there were groups of bushes that have managed to flower.
The trip to Kodaikanal was planned with the express purpose of “Seeing the Kurunji” and of course as a “family” vacation. “Kodai” has always been a favorite holiday destination, since our childhood days, and always brings back nostalgic memories of carefree summers
Usually, the focal point of any holiday with friends or family in the hills, is trekking and walking. It is with wonderful feeling of peace and tranquility that envelops me, when I am surrounded by these mountains, that I look around and feel grateful, that there are concerned citizens and forward thinking administrators, who have, over the past few years, begun to designate areas as “protected”. Due to this, the Shola Forests have begun to thicken and expand and the Kurunji Flower has also been given a favored status. The areas between the Pambar River and Vattakanal, below Coakers Walk are protected as well.
A vacation in Kodai is something that all of us look forward to and there is so much to do there that it feels that there are never enough days! Besides the trekking and long walks, there is of course retail therapy. Great finds on the market street in front of the Kodai International School; Organic Coffee, Tea, Spices, Cheeses, quaint shops selling all kinds of interesting things and The Potters Shed for great ceramics all made in Kodai itself. Some great eating places as well!
Walking around the Lake at dawn has to be one of the most perfect ways to start the day. The air is fresh and crisp; the night’s cold has still not dissipated. The five fingered lake is about 5 km in length to walk, and twice around provides a great workout. It is peaceful, pristine and quiet, especially if it is off season or a weekday! My favourite Chaiwalla in front of the Boat House, serves up a really great Masala Chai, that I always look forward to !!! On our return home we are ready to tuck in to a healthy breakfast of all the organic food, which is so easily available here. It certainly does not get better than this !
Kodai has something for everyone, treks and walks, some challenging and some gentler. Among the more memorable ones are, “The Priests Walk” and “Cloud Land Peak”. The climb to the stunning Perumal Malai !There are also treks to Berijam Lake, to Jerry’s Point and Gundar Valley and a forest trek through “Nettle Shola.” The most challenging trek that I have been on in these hills, led from Kodai to Vellakavi and then down through the forests to Thope in the plains, a distance of 22 kms.
The trek to Cloudland Peak begins at Vilpatti and we begin to climb up into the hills above and head through a couple of villages and finally we are on a beautiful trail leading through the forest. As we climb the air is cold, there is a light mist and we are surrounded on all sides with lovely eucalyptus trees and their perfume fills the air. After a final push we are at the top and reach the edge of the peak . Looking down we can see into the valley below and all across, it is a stunning visual and we spend some time looking around and enjoying the feeling of being this high up and the fact that we are the only people there.
The upper reaches of the town are lovely areas to wander around and explore. There are great walks through all of these areas. The Upper Lake Road and of course, the beautiful Golf Course, one of the most stunning courses in India. If you get lucky, you may see a herd of Bison. Several herds have made this their home, venturing out from the forest after the golfers have packed up.
It is with an immense sense of regret and reluctance that we have to leave this little paradise and return to our lives in busy, bustling Chennai. We leave Kodai, with a slight sense of envy for those lucky people who have chosen to live here and have every intention of spending the rest of their days here as well.
Vidya Gajapati Raju is a wedding planner, writer, and energetic 60 + grandmother whose biggest passion, walking and cycling has led her to pen this blog where she relives the regions of her beloved south through treks.