Daag Dehlvi, a renowned Urdu poet of the 19th century, contemplated the vanishing virtue of faithfulness in love. He penned, “Ud gayi wafa yun zamane se/kabhi goya kisi me thi hi nahi,” highlighting the disappearance of loyalty from the world, as if it had never existed in anyone.
Over a century later, in Prayagraj, a chaiwallah named ‘Bewafa Chai-Paan Wala’ near Kaurihar Bazaar on the Prayagraj-Lucknow highway, echoes this sentiment. Saligram, the 57-year-old owner, has transformed his humble stall into a haven for lovebirds, the lovesick, and the lovelorn, as well as those nursing heartbreak from betrayal.
Saligram not only serves tea but also offers advice to young lovers on nurturing their relationships and counsels the broken-hearted to move forward. The stall’s pricing strategy reflects its theme: a Rs 10 teacup is discounted to Rs 5 for those nursing heartache. Visitors often capture moments at this unique spot, with the name of the stall, ‘Bewafa Chai-Paan Wala,’ resonating deeply with its patrons.
Saligram’s inspiration for the name came from the previous owner, who had been betrayed in love and could no longer manage the stall. “To honour his memory, I named it so temporarily,” Saligram explains. The name, however, stuck, as people began to take notice and frequent the stall, drawn by its intriguing title.
Despite its limited space, around 150 people of all ages visit the stall daily to enjoy tea and share their love stories. Ironically, at the stall ironically named ‘bewafa’ (unfaithful), there seems to be a strong sense of loyalty among its regulars, highlighting the irony of love’s unpredictable nature.