Spring is here, heralding hope and a new sartorial season. The most recent edition of fashion week—a collaboration between the Fashion Design Council of India and Lakme Fashion Week—adapted to the needs of the post-pandemic world by conducting their line-up of shows virtually. One of the most striking collections on display was designer duo Pankaj & Nidhi’s. Called Kaleido, the collection has been described as “a celebration of new beginnings on the ramp—of unbridled self-expression and an optimistic look at the future.”
Derived from the Greek term for ‘beautiful form’, Kaleido is an apt moniker for this set of free-flowing and bright-hued garments that encourage women to embrace and enhance their natural form. The brilliant reds, luscious oranges, unabashed pinks, ultra-violet blues and electric greens immediately grab the viewer’s attention, while the easy silhouettes are soothing to the eye. To ensure a well-rounded offering, tailored co-ord sets with sporty elements are also included.
The fabrics used are sheer, translucent, breathable and easy to wear.
Both award-winning graduates of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, the husband-wife designer duo of Pankaj & Nidhi, have made a name for themselves in the industry through sheer grit and hard work.
August 2012 was a turning point in their career when they were chosen as Grand Finale designers, a first for young talent, at that year’s Lakme Fashion Week. Since then, they have been honoured with several prestigious awards. They operate through their on-ground stores located in Khar West and Altamount Road in Mumbai and Kila, Mehrauli and DLF Emporio Mall in Delhi.
Their latest collection is directly inspired by a kaleidoscope and the myriad unique patterns and visuals it offers. Both designers have always been fascinated with the constant change in patterns in a kaleidoscope.
The technicolour explosion that ensues in that unobtrusive device, sparked off inspiration to create something vibrant, energetic and positive. A kaleidoscope generates changing symmetrical patterns from small pieces of coloured glass, symbolising constant evolution. The designers felt this was the perfect analogy for their creativity which is always evolving too.
The basic elements of 3D geometry such as the shape of optical pyramids, also played a role in Pankaj & Nidhi’s latest line, with futuristic, optimistic and psychedelic nuances displayed through the use of graphic textures and patterns. The overall ‘other-worldly’ effect is highlighted through shiny prismatic elements of holographic embroidery and dexterously hand-cut appliqués in shapes of triangles, squares and diamonds that transition from colourless forms to a vast disbursed spectrum of vivacity. “This collection was nothing short of a celebration of life for us, and an ode to new beginnings. It was an optimistic look at the future, breaking the shackles of the past and moving ahead with joy and embracing one’s intrinsic self,” exclaimed the designers with pride.
The collaborative show between Pankaj & Nidhi and Lakme Salon, was broadcast live on the Lakme Fashion Week Instagram Handle on March 17. Hundreds of people tuned in to view the aesthetically designed set in pastel and pleasing hues, showcasing models dancing and swerving to upbeat music in feminine silhouettes and brightly coloured creations. Their attractive hair styles and vivid makeup added to the overall effect of exuberance and freshness. An optimised balance was visible in the pairing of feminine flounces with structured shapes—flattering both curves and lines together.
When asked about the effects of the pandemic on their latest collection, designer duo Pankaj & Nidhi, claim to have become more prudent in the usage of material and the utility of their designs. Designing sharp and focused collections, in order to reduce waste and ensuring each sample, each stitch and each cut of cloth counts, has become their mantra. “Our planet and nature need nurturing and so do our creative souls. Unfortunately, peace can never be achieved if one comes at the cost of the other. Humankind has its environment in nature but the body’s immediate environment is the clothing that we wear and hence we must care for both,” they say emphatically.
Living in the digital age certainly has its advantages as well as disadvantages. Where digital fashion shows have the potential to reach a much wider audience, physical events, even with limited seating and audience, help the viewer to connect emotionally with the show and with the garments on display. The talented designer duo hope that the current edition of fashion week is a one-off moment in history, and an amalgamated system is developed in the future where digital and physical can take place simultaneously, to reach a diverse and discerning audience.
The writer is a lawyer who pens lifestyle articles for various publications and her blog www.nooranandchawla.com. She can be reached on nooranand@gmail.com.