WHERE LIES THE SOUL OF MUMBAI ?

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Aye Dil Hai Mushkil Jeena Yahan

Ye Hai Bombay , Ye Hai Bombay ,

Ye Hai Bombay Meri Jaan!

            Majrooh Sultanpuri- film CID ( 1956)

Every city has a soul, its centre of gravity, the place where its essential identity exists. The location which defines a city, where its Gods reside, which brings out the best in the place. What is it that defines Mumbai ? Has its definition changed with the moving years and change in its name? Has narrowness taken control of her? Or still the old adage of ‘live and let live’ prevails? Is it in ‘Mumba Devi’ in Jhaveri Bazaar from where the city got its new name -Mumbai? Where it is believed that one must visit on arrival and seek blessings  . Many people believe that she is the Presiding deity of the city and there is always a rush there of blessing seekers . Is it in ‘Mahalakshmi Tempe’ by the sea making it the city of wealth and wealth seekers? Mumbai is the biggest city in India,  its economy controls a substantial economy of the Nation . All major political parties desire to rule this island , This island of eternal dream , this island of opportunities , this island of glitter and ugliness , this island of hope and helplessness, this island gone rogue . Let us search for its ‘heart and soul’ and explore.

Dabbawallas

Jab Aadmi Ke Pet Mein Aati Hein Rotiyan

Phooli Nahin Badan Mein Samati Hein Rotiyan

                   Nazir Akbarabadi ( 1735-1830)

All is not lost  as I survey to identify the location of its spirit, the soul. Is it in the vast and integrated network of ‘Dabbawallas’? they provide such an essential service so efficiently, an original Mumbai organisation which connects office workers to their homes when they receive their tiffin , the large middle class of the city is the beneficiary of this ingenuity of natives and not of some executive of Harward. They have their white uniform and  Gandhi cap. About 5000 people operate this infallible service since more than 100 years . They collect the lunch box  from homes of their clients and within four to five hours deliver at destination and also collect the empty box. Many workers are illiterate but they have a coding system on the box which is foolproof.  This indeed is a marvellous system of socio -economic integration or sub-Nationalism and inspires us. It reflects our intrinsic strength . Many foreign executives and organizations have appreciated and studied this system . It says that we are different but same and are connected .   The film ‘Lunch Box’ starring Irfan Khan was inspired by this system and was well received .  The system reflects simplicity in complexity , it states that all problems are solvable with a human touch , it conveys that that not all are for money and that if we control our wants we as a community could be happy . It is symbol of community happiness and economically viable social service. If the Masters of the city apply this template on all services the happiness quotient could reach much higher.

Marine Drive 

  Do Dewane Shahar Mein, Raat Mein Ya DoPahar Mein

 Aabodana Dhoondte Hein , Ek Aashiyana Dhoondhte Hein  

                                                                Gulzar- Film Gharonda ( 1977) 

Is it in the Marine Drive sea side where the lovers forget their woes whilst they watch the sea , the sun? Oblivious of their immediate difficulties as they hold their hands and rest their heads on each others shoulders. They act in such a manner at this place only, such is the magnetism of the sky, the bay. It gives immense emotional relief, it momentarily liberates them whilst they sit on the pavement, the heat, the waves the wind  cannot deter their resolve to live that moment. They come from different social and economic strata but become one at that place . This face of Mumbai is indeed unique and adds to its character. They forget their office woes , they forget their household worries . The lovers find meaning from the crammed , restricted existence as they step on the pavements of the marine drive and watch the unending horizon , these moments they would like to be eternal and look out to the sea even when the sun has dipped and vanished for the day leaving its colourful lines across the skies. The couples enter for those moments a new emancipated world , free of the worldly warts  a world of which they would dream in childhood of good people with no villains ; indeed this villain less world is of marine drive as the congregation of couples arrives and retreats every day in the evening about Sunset time. 

Dharavi

Unsuitable for song as well as sense

the island flowers into slums

and skyscrapers, reflecting

precisely the growth of my mind.

                         Poem  Island By Nissim Ezekiel

Does it then reside in the biggest slum of Asia-Dharavi? The truth of Mumbai , the reality of the city.  Where like Phoenix life dies and rises to live every day! Where a million lives  live on the edges of existence with dreams to pull out of the marshes to be rescued from the quagmire. The glittering city next door lures them to crime , motivates them to live , banishes them to the lowest rung . And yet it has survived and many have made good and escaped the rot . And the slums survives as long as its services are needed . This patch of gloom sustains the basic needs of the city , many small scale industries making sophisticated goods for glittering shops are functioning  here . Vast numbers of domestic help is provided from this area . Is it the true identity of this maximum city? Is its locomotive, its engine where black coal burns turns red emits flame and returns to ashes. A city within city , the womb of the city which must remain in abject poverty in order to ensure the riches of the rich . If it transforms the rich shall be no more !

 Dalal Street

Koi Sone Ke Dil Wala , Koi Chandi Ke Dil Wala

Shishe Ka Hai Matwale Tera Dil

Mehfil Ye Nahin Teri , Deewane Kahin Chal

                        Majrooh Sultanpuri – Film , Maya ( 1961)

This is the nerve centre of the financial capital of India . Does the heart and soul of Mumbai finds its place here? Where Goddess Laxmi is worshipped , where some people always make money , the rise and fall of tide does not affect them as long as the tide moves ! It is said that Laxmi resides by the sea and indeed the temple of ‘Mahalaxmi’ by the sea represents the city’s economic value. The economic barometer the financial pulse of the Nation is measured here. The ‘ Bull’ in front of the Stock Exchange building is worshipped and feared lest it is annoyed! The brokers and investors would like to see the Bull in action! It is here that the mood of the nation , the sentiments are felt at every minute during the trading period .

Local Train Network

Sine Mein Jalan , Aankhon Mein Toofan    Sa Kyon Hai

Is Shahar Mein Har Shaksh  Pareshan Sa Kyon Hai

                          Shaharyar -Film , Gaman ( !978) 

The life line of Mumbai – The Local Train Network which has in it grip the city of Mumbai from east to west  is indeed the nerve centre of the city where people commuting from far and near consume a  significant part of their lives . It has its character a distinct personality in the map of the city . When it stops the city stops , when it fails the city fails and yet it moves , day and night in socio-economic service of the city and only falters and pauses in extraordinary situations. Could it be given the status of the soul , the heart , the centre , the nucleus of the city . Indeed ! And Yet there are other contenders.

The Cinema world

Waqt   Hai   Meherbaan ,     Aarzoo hai   Jawan

Fikr   Kal   Ki    Karen , Itni   Fursat    Kahan

Daur   Ye   Chalta   Rahe   , Rang   Uchhalta   Rahe

Roop   Machalta   Rahe   , Jaam    Badalta   rahe 

                         Kaifi Azmi- Fim , Kagaz Ke Phool ( 1959) 

Does the cinema world of the city qualify to become the heart and soul of the city? It is more than 100 years since the celluloid culture came into being and since a large populace has made Mumbai their destination with stars in their eyes . This industry of song and dance and drama has evolved into a formidable place on account of its ideology of ‘Fraternity’ which it practised for many years because without fraternity it could not exist . Cinema remains a collaborative and complex art and popular form where the producer, director, actors, song writers, story and screen writers, cameramen , sound men , exhibitors, distributors have to live and work in harmony for common good. It was a commercial venture where a certain ideology kept its sanity under check where good of the people and Nation was supreme and so we had  Himanshu Rai ‘s Studio ‘ Bombay Talkies’ , Raj Kapoor’s ‘ RK Studio’ , Bimal Roy, Mehboob Khan , Guru Dutt , Dev Anand’s Navketan and many others who made meaningful cinema which has stood the test of time . People like Balraj Sahni, Majrooh Sultanpuri and Others went to jail after independence in 1949 for speaking for the people and  against the Government . And now we have actors going to jail for criminal offenses of killing people in  sleep on the pavements. Such a degeneration has happened . Wealth, gloss and glitter are the norms , foreign studios and platforms are ruling the arena . The cinema world has lost the promise.

The Oval Maidan

    Bura Duniya Wo hai Kehta , Aisa Bhola Tu Na Ban

     Jo Hai Karta Wo Hai Bharta , Ye Jahan Ka Hai Chalan

     Dadagiri Nahin Chalne Ki Yahan

    Ye Hai Bombay , Ye Hai Bombay, Ye Hai Bombay Meri Jaan

                         Majrooh Sultanpuri- Film, C I D  ( 1956) 

But I think the soul of Mumbai is at the oval ground. It appears on Saturdays and blooms on Sundays and holidays as we witness multiple/countless cricket teams play all day in perfect harmony. It is 22 acre ground in South Mumbai over looking the Gothic structures of High Court and Mumbai University on one side and the Art Deco residential buildings on the other.  It is estimated that about 25 teams play on the ground in harmony at a given time . The oval ground on Sundays/ holidays  represents the ‘ truth’ of Mumbai and a cursory look by any affirms the faith in the city. There is space for all those who wish to play. The playing area of each team shrinks as the day progresses for all those who enter the field are adjusted and the spirit soars. As Mumbai has encompassed all communities in search of employment so does this ground accepts all in search of recreation. The enchanting spectacle of the ‘Oval Maidan’ is a recent success story of the people . This ground about 30 years back was in a state of decay with no maintenance . Then OCRA ( Oval Cooperage Residents Association) took over after a court case and with the help of some charitable organizations such as TATA  brought it up . It is understood that the Oval Maidan  in its new Avtaar was inaugurated in 1999 by Governor P C Alexander . Only sports activities are permitted in this Maidan and Political and religious activities are not allowed. Drainage facilities , watering systems are operating . About 250 palm tress in addition to existing trees have been planted. It is indeed a picture of hope as we believe that such things can happen everywhere . It is a modern facility created with collective efforts where selfishness has been abandoned and where socialism and secularism have triumphed . I am sure the ‘heart and soul’ of Mumbai rests here.