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WEAVING A VINTAGE TEXTILE TALE

Mehraab is a delight for the tastes of north Indian couture seekers who are raised to respect embroideries. Its entire wardrobe is pivoted around classic and vintage hand embroideries.

Render it on to the finest silks, crepes and chiffons in a rich colour palette, and what you have is a collection of the most delectable classic Indian ensembles.

This regal heirloom collection has been created by three siblings, and a very dear friend, under the brand label, Mehraab. Together, they have created a collection of wedding and occasion wear for men and women that is, above all, a visual treat and a congregation of all things precious.

The brand name might be Mehraab, but I prefer to call them ‘Delhi’s best kept secret’. It is a delight for the tastes of north Indian couture seekers who are raised to respect embroideries. Their entire wardrobe is pivoted around classic and vintage hand embroideries—for these discerning ladies, the staples in their wardrobe include Pashminas embellished with Kashmiri aari work, gossamer chiffon dupattas in petit point, a handful of Parsi Gara sarees and a full collection of embroidered ensembles. And it is for such women of utmost taste, that Mehraab is a veritable answer to their prayers.

It was the quiet work of Anu Seth, who ran an embroidery unit, which got her siblings, Arti Talwar and Arun Ahuja, interested in the business of couture. Anu, a beader for the most revered Indian couturiers, felt that her stunning works needed to be sold under her own brand. “Every time I created something stunning—a vintage gara border, a petit point blouse or a sari with a full jaal—I thought, why can’t I create a complete ensemble with it? Something that reflects my sensibility?” says Anu.

Her sister, Aarti, reiterated the belief and together they started creating beautiful sarees, lehengas and other Indian silhouettes. In a short span, they were selling their pieces to leading stores like Ensemble and Ogaan, taking shows overseas and opening their by-appointment atelier for those with impeccable taste.

Arun Ahuja also joined them, interested as he was in design. Having inherited a flourishing construction business, he found himself torn between creating classic buildings and stunning clothes. He shares, “Our family is behind many iconic Delhi buildings like the Hyatt Regency and the Akshardham Temple. I took over the business after my father passed away.” However, he had always been drawn towards design of the fashion variety. “I loved dressing up myself, as did John Marya, my partner. But whenever we went to the market, all we found were loud menswear in garish colors.” Hence, they began their journey, creating menswear they could identify with at a personal level.

They created classic kurta ensembles in linen with a floral jacket to boot. Their sherwani in velvet was filled with the same level of rich embroidery that would grace the bride’s lehenga. Many a groom has taken his vows in their creations. Their subtle touches, like the caplets, the gilets, the printed jackets and the bandhgalas with Jodhpurs, create a complete look.

Now selling both from their appointment-only store and through leading multi-brand outlets, the label endeavours to translate traditional Indian craft, adding to it their signature contemporary touch. Meticulously crafted, the luxury label offers elaborately detailed long jackets, well-tailored and embroidered kurta-separates, kurta-salwar, bandhgala, kurta-bandis, bandis, layered kurtas and much more, skillfully highlighting the intricate Indian motifs. Mehraab has renewed the vintage charm of the bygone era through a well-articulated design story.

For women, the label has revived the Maharani’s dressing style, recreating the blend of richly embroidered chiffon sarees worn with capes and koti blouses. Women’s wear by Mehrab also get their richness from the embroidery and the generous use of rich embellishments and stones. As Arun concludes, “Indians have always loved hand craftsmanship. It is the jewel in our life, and we want to keep this legacy alive.”

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