Kiki McDonough, whose colourful and feminine designs have made her a celebrated jeweller, initially experienced the effects of her success not at some lavish affair, but at a football stadium. Recalling the incident, she told The Times, “I was at Wembley Stadium, watching Liverpool play, and a woman two seats in front of me was wearing a pair of my earrings. She was having the most fabulous time.”. That was the moment I thought to myself, ‘Oh Kiki, you have really done it.’
Today 70, McDonough is preparing to mark the 40th anniversary of her jewellery house in June. Her designs, renowned for their versatility, have won over royals, including Princess of Wales, Queen Camilla, and the late Princess Diana.
Her jewelry career started in the 1980s when a friend asked her to create accessories for his shop in Mayfair. With no training, McDonough’s own eye for style came from her father, a Georgian jewelry expert. She remembers, “In those times, jewelry shops were intimidating and male-run. Women never purchased jewelry for themselves.” McDonough then created accessories that were glamorous and yet wearable, something she herself would want to wear.
The Breakthrough Design
Her career-changing breakthrough occurred when she created her heart-shaped crystal earrings, finished with gold and diamonds. They were a phenomenon, and she went on to open her own boutique on Elizabeth Street in 1985. She remembers well her surprise when someone purchased a pair for £900, which was a large amount of money back then.
Her creations soon appealed to royalty, and it was Princess Diana who actually made the brand. McDonough describes how Diana, an acquaintance from a teenager, stopped by her shop one day accompanied by a builder to make a declaration of presence. Diana’s amethyst and pearl earrings worn to the White House in 1990 have become legendary with more than 400 pairs selling. “They happened almost accidentally,” McDonough admits, “but they’ve become iconic.”
McDonough’s success rested on a philosophical approach: employing jewellery to emphasize the wearer, not the jewellery. Her policy has been unwavering even in adversity, such as three recessions, the Lloyd’s crash, divorce, and the pandemic. Explaining her fortitude, McDonough states, “Complaining is unattractive. My job is to find solutions.”
Looking to the Future
As she celebrates her 40th anniversary, McDonough will unveil her “Retrospective Collection,” which includes reissues of her most popular designs, such as Diana’s earrings, statement cocktail rings, and gemstone bead necklaces. New designs based on her favorite stones, such as blue topaz, peridot, morganite, and fire opal, will also be introduced. The collection will be exhibited at London’s Saatchi Gallery before transferring to her Sloane Square flagship store. McDonough is also preparing to release her memoir, A Life of Colour, filled with stories from her illustrious career.
Looking ahead, McDonough shows no signs of slowing down. She’s already working on a ballet-inspired collection and shares a playful retirement fantasy of becoming an usher at the Royal Opera House to watch ballet for free. “But really,” she says with a smile, “I’ve still got so much more to do.”
