Renowned American climber Alexander Pancoe tragically passed away on May 4, 2025, at Camp II on Mount Makalu, the world’s fifth-highest peak. At 39 years old, the Chicago native was on a mission to raise funds for pediatric cancer research at Lurie Children’s Hospital, where he had previously undergone treatment for a brain tumor in 2005.
His death marked the first American fatality on Makalu this season, and it also became the second fatality reported in Nepal’s spring climbing season.
Final Climb Ends in Tragedy
Alexnder Pancoe began feeling unwell after completing an acclimatization rotation to Camp III. He descended to Camp II for rest, but his condition worsened. Despite attempts to revive him, Pancoe suffered a suspected cardiac arrest and passed away.
While the exact cause of death will be confirmed after a postmortem, his team is actively working to retrieve his body from the mountain.
Life of Adventure and Philanthropy
Pancoe’s mountaineering achievements were significant. He completed the prestigious Explorer’s Grand Slam, a challenge that involves summiting the highest peak on each of the seven continents and skiing to both the North and South Poles. Only 75 people in the world have achieved this feat. Pancoe’s climbing career took on a personal mission after surviving a brain tumor.
He used his expeditions to raise awareness and funds for pediatric brain tumor research. Through his organization, Peaks of Mind, he raised nearly $500,000 for Lurie Children’s Hospital.
Battling Leukemia During Final Expedition
In 2023, Alexander Pancoe faced a new challenge when he was diagnosed with chronic myeloid leukemia. The disease complicated his ability to acclimatize to high altitudes, making his Makalu expedition particularly grueling. Nevertheless, he persisted, dedicating this climb to raise $27,838—the height of Makalu in feet—for pediatric cancer research. On his website, he shared that climbing with a chronic illness would be tough, but he remained determined to meet the challenge head-on.
Alexander Pancoe’s death is the second reported fatality during this climbing season in Nepal. An Austrian climber tragically passed away last month while descending from a successful summit of Ama Dablam. Nepal, home to eight of the world’s ten highest peaks, has already issued nearly 500 climbing permits this season, with 214 of those for Mount Everest alone.
Legacy of Courage and Compassion
Throughout his life, Alexander Pancoe embodied resilience, courage, and a deep commitment to helping others. His legacy extends far beyond his mountaineering feats. He inspired many with his determination and his philanthropic work, leaving an indelible mark on the causes he supported.
His contributions to both the climbing community and cancer research will continue to resonate long after his death.