H e is possibly India’s most acclaimed costume creator, the only couturier to have shown in celebrated museums of the world. A scion of the Hutneesing family who traces their lineage to the Mughal era and a true blue restorer and textile protagonist who is doing India proud.
Umang Hutheesing recently took his bridal story to Sri Lanka as a VIP headliner to the Sri Lanka Wedding Week 2022. Hosted by Brides of Sri Lanka magazine together with the Galle Face Hotel the platform also showcased Umang’s classic bridal wear. The Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau, Sri Lanka Convention Bureau and Sri Lankan Airlines partnered in the event to promote Sri Lanka as a destination for weddings in India and other prospective target markets. For the ramp, besides presenting his signature regal collections also had Umang create a spectacular cameo of Bolero jacket for the groom, with the Garuda regally embroidered on them and the puffed sleeves adding to the heirloom appeal. Recreating the era of the Raj, Umang presented a collection that personified sophisticated elegance and unmatched grandeur. He presented rich brocades, silks and velvets as they danced with delicate chemoys bringing to life the magnificence of the bygone era. Grand sarees, kalidar ghaghras and anarkalis, richly gathered gheras, odhanas and dupattas hand-woven and richly embellished filled the bridal collection for women.
Heir to the Hutheesing family that owes its lineage to Osia near Jaisalmer. The Nagar Seth of Ahmadabad the Hutheesings led an indulgent life. Over the years the family curated a vast collection of royal costumes. Which still holds as a legacy for the future. He says, “Our style of preserving old costumes is unique to our legacy. The artisans have been trained in royal poshak-khaanas, and from our temples. We have skilled artisans working with us, from the states: Bengal, Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and Kashmir. Working with each masterpiece, whether it’s an embellished angarkhaa or a wieldy lehenga, the embroideries are handled with delicate mastery, using motifs from the medieval times.” He helms the Hutheesing Design Company, established in 1835. Hutheesing Design Company tied up with Tiffany & Co in 1881 and won nine gold medals at the Paris World Expo 1900 as one of the finest design firms in the world. It executed the East Wing of the White House and Durbar Hall of Osborne House at Queen Victoria’s Palace.
Umang is a Managing Trustee of Hutheesing Visual Arts Center and the President of Hutheesing Heritage Foundation. He is the 5th generation to head the firm and has been a Creative Consultant at American Vogue, Teen Vogue and many international media. He has collaborated with Holland & Holland, the official outfitters to Queen Elizabeth and Prince Charles, and has showcased at Buckingham Palace for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations. He has also done panels for the Roosevelt House of the US. He is the only Indian designer to have shown over 300 of his creations at renowned international museums and has the honour to create regal costumes for several Royal Families in India and across the world. Umang is expected to showcase ten brides and ten grooms on the 20th of February at Wedding Week 2022.
Umang’s Durbar Collection is inspired by the grand durbar which was held in Delhi to celebrate and welcome King George V and Queen Mary as all the Indian Royalties had gathered for the Coronation and Delhi was renamed the Capital of India. It was the same year when Delhi was re-established as India’s capital. Hutheesing Design Company hosted an exhibition of antique textile art in Paris, the year 2010, with exemplary patrons, the ex-French president Nicolas Sarkozy and his wife Carla Brunei. The firm was authorized in 1882 to rework the East Wing of The White House, the home to many American Presidents.
A looming, majestic building, the White House has elements of Indian design. HDC has once more laid their regal imprint on the White House, by designing the textured silk panels at Roosevelt House. “The eternal Tree of Life, with 50 stars of the American flag, displays within itself the Metaphysical meaning of Life. The design in itself helps unify the Indo-American everlasting bond!”, says Umang.