India has been the hallmark of diverse and beautiful textiles and crafts for centuries. Fortunately, with brands embracing digital models and catering to modern sensibilities, the country’s rich legacy is being preserved despite the advent of fast fashion and international trends. Sold online and through its flagship store in Varanasi, Tilfi Banaras is at the forefront of this movement. Co-founder & CEO Aditi Chand spoke exclusively to The Daily Guardian about the values Tilfi stands for and their latest collection titled ‘Shakti’. Excerpts:
Q. Despite no training in fashion, what made you enter this industry?
A. We don’t believe we are in the fashion industry but think of ourselves as creators and purveyors of craft. Our family has worked with the heritage craft of Banarasi handloom for decades but our decision to enter the industry was not simply for succession. We had built alternate careers for ourselves but a chance conversation with one of our weavers inspired us to return to our roots, to build a purpose-driven company and take this exceptional craft and its craftsmen to a global platform.
Q. How has the journey been so far? Can you share some challenging and some rewarding moments?
A. It has been difficult to build a business in an age-old, traditional industry while adhering to international standards of efficiency and quality. We have faced numerous obstacles such as a lack of infrastructure, professionalism, and the unwillingness to change the way things have always been done. Add to this the economic shocks presented by demonetisation and the introduction of GST, and the advent of the pandemic. Yet, every time we are surprised by the endurance and adaptability of our weaver community which strengthens our resolve to create a better business environment and a brighter future for them. This has made the journey exceptional and fulfilling.
There have also been several rewarding moments. It is exhilarating to receive compliments regarding our weaves, craft and the customer experience. During the lockdown last year, when the entire weaving industry was struggling, we were able to keep all our artisans engaged and remunerated. Several of them expressed their gratitude for the support we were able to provide in the time of distress which allowed them to celebrate the festival of Eid. It was one of the most satisfying moments, for what is the worth of a business if it can’t bring joy to its employees.
Q. What was the muse for your latest collection ‘Shakti’?
A. ‘Shakti’ is Tilfi’s interpretation of the transcendent divine feminine energy. It is the creative force that runs through all our endeavours and the artistic spirit that unites our community. Even in the face of difficulty, it gives us the strength and resilience to carry on producing enduring objects of art, which make the world more beautiful, aesthetic, and joyful. ‘Shakti’ comes at a time when the world needs to celebrate inner strength and creativity.
Q. How did you decide on tissue as the fabric of choice for your new collection?
A. We build each collection around a central idea — to play with a particular fabric, a weaving technique, a family of colours or patterns and motifs. With ‘Shakti’ we chose to experiment with tissue. Weaving tissue is challenging as it requires tremendous skill to balance two different yarns in the warp and weft. We also felt there was a lot of room for experimentation with tissue, as it hadn’t been done before. While ‘Shakti’ explores and celebrates the craft of tissue, it reimagines and adapts several other heritage weaving techniques for a contemporary rendition and a graphic effect. These include the exquisite Rangkat, Dampach, and Kadhua weaving styles.
Q. What occasions is Tilfi’s latest collection most apt for?
A. We believe it is for anyone who appreciates the ingenuity of technique, superiority of materials, and refinement of weaves. The sarees are minimalist and sophisticated and can be draped for any important event or special occasion. Our palette is versatile and suitable for both day and evening wear.
Q. How often do you introduce new collections to your repertoire?
A. Banarasi weaving is not just limited to brocades. Experts from this region work with varied fabrics including katan, satin, cotton, kora, and georgette, use numerous techniques such as kadhua, cutwork, dampach, and tanchoi etc., and specialise in multiple patterns like meenakari jaals, jamawar, jangla, and rangkat etc. Weavers have mastered these crafts over generations and the extent of their specialisation is such that there are craftsmen who for generations have woven only ‘satin tanchois’, ‘cotton jamdanis’ or ‘katan kadhua bootis’ and nothing else. Our collections aim to capture this wide repertoire of the weaving excellence of Banaras. Hence, we frequently introduce new collections to honour different craft forms.
The interviewer is a lawyer who pens lifestyle articles for various publications and her blog www.nooranandchawla.com. She can be reached on nooranand@gmail.com.